China Live House XO Sauce with Cognac
We found it: the best XO sauce on the market. An intensely savory condiment of chilies, dried seafood and cured ham that originated in Hong Kong, XO sauce is a rich umami bomb. This game-changing sauce from Chef George Chen adds flavor, umami, texture and heat when used as an ingredient in a dish or as a condiment. Every spoonful of China Live’s XO sauce contains a surprising mix of textures and flavors; jammy or crispy-chewy bits of dried seafood, meat or alliums are suspended in a silky sauce that never feels oily, unlike mass-produced versions. XO sauce gets its name from “extra old” cognac, a drink that was fashionable in 1980s Hong Kong when the sauce was first made—even though it’s not typically an ingredient. But Chen and his mixologist added cognac for a final touch of silkiness and flavor, like using a brandy glaze to finish a steak. This XO sauce is more complex than spicy, with moderate heat from “facing heaven” chili peppers. And the sauce has a subtle, earthy sweetness and a light brininess.
China Live House Hot Mustard
Chef George Chen got the idea for China Live’s House Hot Mustard from his college dim sum days; he was always served a dish of the hot yellow condiment alongside savory-sweet barbecued char siu pork. The sinus-clearing mustard cut through the unctuous, molasses flavor of the pork. Chen’s hot mustard isn’t as overpowering as what’s standard in Chinese restaurants, which is usually made by combining a strong ready-made powder with oil, water or vinegar. His version revives the lost art of making mustard, carefully balancing 10 ingredients—including a house-ground five-spice powder and fresh lemon juice for tang—for a mustard that is milder than the average but still punchy, with noticeable warmth from the spice.