Many smoked olive oils we’ve tried have too strong of a bonfire-like flavor or come across as one note of smoke, with nothing that we love about olive oil—the fruitiness, butteriness and rounded taste—coming through at all due to using low-quality oil. This one is vastly different. It’s made from 100% Spanish Arbequina olives, known for their highly aromatic nature and fruity taste, that are pressed no later than four hours after picking and then cold-infused with smoke from oak and other organic woods to add a delicate smoky taste without sacrificing the oil’s complex flavor. We much prefer this to lesser smoked oils, which use liquid smoke or smoked flavor in lieu of natural wood. On the palate, you taste apple and almond, with deep, warming notes of caramel, vanilla and toffee. A surprisingly nuanced and never overpowering smoked flavor comes through at the finish. And it’s easy on the eyes, too, a rich green with glimmers of gold.
Castillo de Canena has been making olive oil near the Guadalquivir River Valley since 1780, monitoring the entire process form beginning to end.
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This complex olive oil adds a welcome hint of smoke to anything and also enhances any smoky, charred flavors that might already be present. Meats, fish and other grilled or roasted foods get an earthy, dimensional boost with a drizzle of the stuff, while dips and spreads benefit from the soft smokiness that it brings. A bit blended with a dollop of mayo instantly upgrades a sandwich. A pour over roasted summer veggies gives the illusion of the grill without the hassle. It also does wonders for salads in a vinaigrette, giving a little extra oomph to a medley of sweet citrus fruits, toasted nuts and blue cheese. And nothing beats a drizzle of the oil atop fat, juicy slices of heirloom tomato with a sprinkle of good salt.
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