Xilli Salsa Macha
Salsa macha is not readily available in grocery stores, but it’s worth it to track some down—especially if it’s this one from Xilli, which is made by hand in small batches. It has clear chili flavor— smokey, fruity, darkly roasted without being burnt—and a satisfying, crunchy texture from ground buttery, roasted peanuts and flakes of tender chili. They’re almost confetti-like suspended in the silky oil. The taste is dark and deep, but without any bitterness. Simple, yet still nuanced, it’s the perfect condiment.
​Xilli Mole Poblano
This decadent mole takes 5 days and 30 different ingredients to make. And the effort is well worth it. Most pre-made mole pastes and powders we’ve tried in the States have been awful—at best, they are bland and at worst, they are chalky and bitter. Xilli’s Mole Poblano, prepared by hand in small batches using traditional methods, is the polar opposite: It’s smooth and decadent with a pleasant moderate heat. Once it hits the palate, it truly opens up into an extraordinary melody of tastes. The first flavor to pop out is earthy dark-sweet dried chili and chocolate. This gives way to a nuttiness that is almondy and smooth. There is a warming, woodsy spice to it, but it’s not sticking out in a prominent way—just enough to round out the cacao flavor. The sweetness is caramel-like, as though many of the ingredients were carefully roasted, but a subtle brightness keeps it from becoming cloying. Though it takes days to make, this mole is the perfect kitchen shortcut, offering decadent, long-cooked flavor in little time.
​Xilli Chipotle Adobados
The adobo sauce from grocery stores can often taste too tomato-y, often diminishing the flavor and aroma of the chili. In this one, made by hand in small batches, that smoky chipotle flavor rings loud and clear. Five different pepper chili pepper varietals are used here to impart a layered, smoky-sweet taste. It’s not competing with the sauce, but being enhanced by it. It’s earthy, with a BBQ-like sweet smolder and quite spicy, but not too much. We especially love how the peppers themselves are soft and tender, with a braised, nearly spreadable suppleness.
El Sabor de Oaxaca Mole Coloradito
Milk Street is the only vendor in the U.S. that carries this decadent mole crafted in Oaxaca, Mexico. Lusciously smooth with a brick red hue, this mole is thick and rich, yet bright with robust chili flavor. A pleasant hint of garlic lingers at the base, while the almond’s fruity nuttiness plays up the paste’s subtle sweetness and emphasizes the paste’s pleasant heat. While many moles we sampled were too sugary, this one is perfectly balanced and can be sweetened to taste. Simply dilute with water or broth for a smooth sauce.
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El Sabor de Oaxaca Mole Negro
Milk Street is the only vendor in the U.S. that carries this decadent mole crafted in Oaxaca, Mexico. The black paste yields a velvet-smooth sauce when diluted with water or stock that leads with aromatic sweet chili notes from four different chili varietals. The taste then transitions into layers of nutty richness from peanuts, walnuts and almonds. A touch of bitterness and moderate hit of heat rounds out the complex range of flavors. While many moles we sampled were too sugary, this one is perfectly balanced and can be sweetened to taste.
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