Only eight islands in Japan produce Okinawan brown sugar, or kokuto, a raw smoky sugar that is made by slow-cooking sugarcane juice in a centuries-old production method protected by the Okinawa Prefecture. It is smoky and intense, with a tobacco-like aroma and a perfect balance of sweet and bitterness. The Japanese sugarcane imparts a slight fruity aftertaste, and its naturally high mineral content is not only healthier for you but also translates into complex warming spice notes. Use Okinawan brown sugar as a smoky alternative to dark brown sugar, or take advantage of its spicy, bitter notes to add depth to savory recipes. Try it in rich meat braises, swapping out some of the molasses in our Sweet Soy-Braised Pork—it pairs wonderfully with the umami of soy sauce. Similarly, try it in recipes with fish sauce, such as our Stir-Fried Beef and Ginger with Garlic and Scallions or Stir-Fried Black Pepper Chicken with Green Beans; in both cases, substitute an equal amount of Okinawan brown sugar for the white sugar the recipe calls for.

Conventional brown sugar is simply white, refined sugar moistened with molasses. On the other hand, raw muscovado sugar has a rich, earthy and almost smoky flavor, as well as a high molasses content. India Tree’s moist-textured variety, processed in Mauritius, can be substituted for dark brown sugar in any recipe (we tested this) or used to add extra flavor to coffee, tea or cocktails (perfect in an Old Fashioned).

Here at Milk Street we have rediscovered more flavorful pantry items including flours, vinegars, oils, and salts. At the top of our list, however, is sugar. This raw, unrefined sugar from Colombia packs a complex, earthy flavor that’s terrific in everything from tea, coffee and cocktails to oatmeal or grapefruit. The bittersweet flavor also does well in savory applications, like a pot of Mexican beans or tomato-based pasta sauces. It will become your sugar bowl standard.

Organic jaggery is a raw, unprocessed Indian sugar produced from unfiltered sugarcane juice. We love this one from Pure Indian Foods for its deep, earthy flavor—reminiscent of maple and caramel—and its moist, almost creamy, yet crumbly texture. The family-owned company traces its roots to 1889 in northern India and sources pantry staples have a complexity and authenticity that just can’t be imitated. Use jaggery as an all-purpose sweetener; it pairs well with warm spices like cinnamon, allspice and cardamom or with anything coconut or citrus.