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The barquillero was the heartbeat of Spanish street life from the 18th to the mid-20th centuries. The wafer vendor would haul hand-painted, half-meter-tall tin cylinders to parks, beaches, busy streets and church doors. Inside were sweet, crispy wafer rolls. But the barquillero didn’t just sell them—they traded them on a gamble. After paying for a coin, customers alike would spin the lid’s built-in roulette and hope to win a large amount of cookies. (You can see our buyer Alba, as a child in Spain, doing just that in the accompanied photo.) The dial was unforgiving; high numbers were nestled between low ones, and a blank meant you’d walk away empty-handed.
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