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It came to ancient Japan from China in the 7th century A.D. The Japanese quickly learned that as they cooked and fermented soybeans to create miso, a pleasantly salty, protein-rich liquid was produced (in fact, “tamari” translates to “puddle” in Japanese). Roughly 1,000 years later, as production became an industrial endeavor rather than a kitchen art, enterprising tamari brewers changed the recipe so it was easier to scale: They brewed a sharper, brinier condiment from a thinner, half-wheat and half-soy mash (faster than waiting for thick, pure miso to ferment), and soy sauce as we know it was born.
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