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Caramelo owner Rubén Leal grew up in Hermosillo, Sonora, where translucently thin, richly flavorful flour tortillas are a staple. After relocating to the U.S., he found that the further he got from the Mexican border, the worse the tortillas tasted. So he started making his own, by hand at first, then using his mother’s electric tortilla press. What began at farmers markets grew into an operation producing 15,000 tortillas a day for chefs and speciality grocers alike. More recently, Leal turned his attention to corn. He spent months refining the nixtamalization, grinding and cooking processes to create thin, fragrant tortillas sturdy enough to hold plenty of filling.
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