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Across Bangkok, we tasted a dozen versions to understand the iconic noodle stir-fry. Start by soaking rice noodles for about 30 minutes.
Drain the noodles and set near the stove. In a medium bowl next to them, toss together bean sprouts, chives and peanuts; set near the stove.
Prepare the tamarind pulp and put 3 tablespoons in a medium bowl with sugar, oyster sauce, soy sauce and fish sauce. Also place near the stove.
In a wok over high, heat oil until smoking and cook the shrimp for 1 to 2 minutes. Set aside, wipe out the wok and heat oil again.
Cook shallot, garlic and pepper flakes for 20 to 30 seconds. Add the eggs and cook 20 to 30 seconds. Add the noodles and cook, stirring and tossing.
Pour half the sauce mixture down the sides of the wok; it should bubble immediately. Cook until the liquid is absorbed, and add the remaining sauce.
Add the shrimp and half of the bean sprout mixture. Cook until the shrimp are opaque and toss in the remaining sprout mixture. Serve with lime wedges and chilies in vinegar.
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